Install the new seal, filter and replace the pan when it is completely done draining. The filler hole is at the top of the case against the bottom of the body, so you'll need a siphon to refill it after draining the old fluid out. I was surprised by how much, given that the truck only has 18,000 miles on it. I also changed the leaky freeze plug behind the starter. Before: After: Jeb I'm starting to worry,.
. I always hear about the blue stuff, and that got me to wondering what the old stuff was. If you have a manual shift transfer case, I think it calls for Dextron Tranny fluid, but check you owners manual, it will tell in there. I have a pump already, just need to get the fluid whenever I change it. Tom, when I went down to see Rob 2000z71 on Pacific last month we did the t-case fluid on my 99.
Note: not all air conditioning refrigerants are the same. I enjoy taking the pics and doing the write-ups. How about the tranny stuff guys, what fluid should i use and is it also easy? If you're not sure, ask your dealer. It takes almost 2 quarts to fill it up. Locate a small wing nut looking valve on the bottom driver side of the radiator there should al … so be a small hose that runs from the valve up to a clip on the side of the radiator this is the drain hose. Inspect the fluid and the drain plug for signs of excessive metal wear, but bear in mind that a small amount of metal salt is considered normal wear and not a cause for alarm.
Again, my impact wrench saved my bacon. I am pretty happy I got them all changed. Don't have the link handy, but I had in my usual form a lengthy write-up here. You should do this on a calm day so as not to get dirt blown in the transmission. All-in-all, I should have taken it in to a shop but I wanted to see first hand what was in the pan. I guess that just helps to flush out all the old red fluid. I also reused my original drain and fill plugs after the first drain, but replaced them with new ones after the second drain.
Remove the plugs and let the old fluid drain out. It is bolted to the frame. Minimum throttle and let it shift through all ranges. It wont leak very much. Remove the filter and the seal, that will require a small prybar to pop seal out of the bottom of the housing.
After they are all snug you can tighten them being carefull not to over tighten. You may want to state in the write up to reinstall the fill plug. For the auto tranny, personally, I'd take it to a dealer, or reliable tranny service shop and have them flush everything, including the convertor, and refill - more expensive, but cheap insurance as I see it! In addition to the above: I couldn't gain access to the Torx bolts securing the cable bracket. Lift the drive shaft upward, out of the way, and lower the axel housing as far down as it will go. There is going to be some old fluid you couldn't change because it was left in the torque converter.
Someone told me the front diff took 3 quarts, but I only needed 2. I used an air impact wrench. In summer, I used it a couple times on a slick boat ramp. I had to remove the drive shaft on my 4-wheel drive and grasped the screw heads using a vise grip. The axial spline junction on my shaft was too rusted to 'telescope' in for full removal, so taking the yoke brackets off of the … front universal joint was enough for the next step.
GreenRado, does the stuff come on the bolts already? While I had the plug out I took pictures of the amount of shavings and sludge on the magnetic drain plug. Basically, fill it up until the fluid runs out the fill hole. I don't remember for sure, but I think I didn't have to add any more even after moving out on the level streeet and checking it. Oops, I guess I shouldn't have said that! If you replentish the additives by replacing 50% of the fluid, you are further ahead. Don't use anything other then autotrac 2 blue stuff from the stealership.
I used an extention on the air wrench to reach out and avoid interference. No ill effects or leaking yet, and it's been ~ 3500 miles. You should be able to see that the bolt holes in the gasket align up properly. Of coarse the van has to be off ramps+on level ground. Just take the bracket off and lossed the lines. You have to keep in mind its not always the performance issue of a fluid but the chemical makeup of it that qualifies it for use in transmission, transfer case etc.
Only four bolts to remove. I just wish I would have done the transfer case a bit sooner. This stuff is blue in color, like a Smurf. That is how I did my truck. Unscrew the plug if equipped and let the fluid drain out. I changed the transfer case fliuld out of my truck at 46K and the drain plug looked like that, also the fluid was fairly red. I did pull a guy out of a ditch when the truck was barely broken in around 1,000 miles.